2019 Martín Códax Albariño

2019 Martín Códax Albariño

Vintage: 2019
Region: Rías Baixas, Spain
Winery: Martín Códax
Varieties: 100% Albariño
Price: $12
Critic Rating: 89 Points
My Rating: 88 Points

The Review: Happy Monday (for you; it's Sunday for me right now)! I noticed that I hadn't written about that many whites recently, which I'll chalk up to the cold weather. Just as beer drinkers will switch over to heavier/heartier beers in the winter, many wine drinkers tend to drink mostly reds in the cold, so I'm having to rely on some older notes for today's wine because I want to avoid only writing about reds.

The Martín Códax Albariño is an example of the most famous Spanish white grape, from said grape's most famous region, by said region's most internationally recognized producer. Year after year, it is one of the most solid examples of Albariño from the Rias Baixas region in Northwestern Spain for a fair price every year. One of the cool things about Albariño is that it loves warmer climates and thrives in sandy soils, so it's the perfect beach wine (trying to daydream about the beach so I don't get mad at the continuous ice storms). Because the grapes hold their acid levels so well, these growing conditions offer a really cool contrast of fragrant and zesty fruits with a hint of brine. I've yet to meet someone who actively dislikes Albariño, but I would especially recommend it to people who love Sauvignon Blancs.

The 2019 Martín Códax Albariño presents a very fragrant nose, with aromas of pear, green apple, grapefruit, and lemon zest. Some of the secondary notes include a delicate aroma of citrus blossom and a hint of brine- like a fresh Atlantic breeze. The taste of this wine hits with a big slap of acidity that is mellowed out by the tiniest bit of residual sugar for balance and body (this is not uncommon, and the wine still qualifies as "dry"). There are notes of ripe apple, some pineapple, and some lemon zest. The feature of this wine, and others from the region, is a flashy minerality and a bit of the brine-y-ness, which kind of comes across as tasting like white pepper.

Albariño is a really delicious grape, and I'm hoping that we see a sort of winemaking Renaissance here in Virginia, because our climate is perfectly suited for this hot-weather-loving invincible grape. I know there are a few VA, Maryland, and NC wineries that are trying their hand, but I'd be willing to bet that we see a big move towards it after the industry gets more established. But in the meantime, go grab some oysters or scallops, enjoy some Spanish (or Portuguese) Albariño, and daydream about the beach.

drink what you like,

db

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