2015 Linden Hardscrabble Chardonnay
2015 Linden Hardscrabble Chardonnay
Vintage: 2015
Region: Fauquier County, Virginia
Winery: Linden Vineyards
Winery: Linden Vineyards
Varieties: Chardonnay
Price: $35
My Rating: 89 Points
The Review: In honor of most Virginia wineries making it through most of harvest (at least of white grapes) and Fall sneaking up on us, I thought it'd be appropriate to cover one of the most recognized and renowned Virginia wines out there- the Linden Hardscrabble Chardonnay.
Linden Vineyards was first planted in 1985 with the intention of making single-vineyard expression wines. The first few acres, now making up part of the "Hardscrabble" vineyard, are still included in today's production. Those are some old vines! Typically, vineyards in Virginia will cycle out vines every 10ish years, however, Linden has been able to keep these old vines healthy and continue their production. Currently, Linden has three distinct vineyard sites- Hardscrabble, Avenius, and Boisseau- and the wines that have been coming from these sites have been some of the finest Virginia has to offer. In fact, Linden is widely regarded as the best producer of white wines in the state, and one of the best on the East Coast. The Chardonnays are consistently compared with Burgundian Chardonnays, and Wine Spectator even argues that the Hardscrabble site would certainly be considered a "Grand Cru" if the United States had a vineyard rating system.
So, it's safe to say that the Hardscrabble Chardonnay is a powerhouse wine. It's a classic French style with a Virginia flair. It's balanced and agile, yet bold and age-worthy- a combination rarely found in wine, let alone white wines.
The 2015 Linden Hardscrabble Chardonnay (I believe we're on to 2016 in market now) shows a really interesting aroma combination of cool and warm climate Chardonnay. The grape itself is quite versatile and presents itself differently in different climates, so it's really interesting to see a Chardonnay that has hints of multiple climate expressions. There are aromas of stone fruits- apricots and white peach (warm climate!)- but also zesty lemon and lime (cooler climate!). Linden uses a balanced amount of new oak and the faintest hint of vanilla also sneaks through. The taste focuses more on some of the acidic lemon and lime notes but is also rounded out with stone fruits. I was impressed by some of the secondary oak flavors in this wine because they were so well balanced with the fruit. There was a great sweet cream note, with just the faintest hint of spice.
What really impressed me about this wine was that it was a 6-year-old Chardonnay and was still bursting with energy. This isn't something you see everyday! Most whites are meant to be drank within a year or two of pressing, so it's special when you get one that holds up to, and even improves with, age. Also impressive, considering for how much work goes into Virginia wine, is the price. $35 is more than fair for a wine of this caliber. If you're able to find it at your local wine shop, I would highly recommend giving this a try, perhaps alongside some other Virginia classics.
Happy almost Fall and remember to support your unbelievably exhausted and worn-out Virginia winemakers!
drink what you like,
db
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